Paradox Sea Trials 
                By Glen 
                Maxwell 
               It was my view that in order to 
                really get to know Zoë and learn 
                her quirks, I would need to spend a few days, at the very least, 
                just sailing and living aboard her. I decided to sail from Cedar 
                Key on the Gulf of Mexico south to my brother Gary’s home 
                in Port Richey, where if need arose, I could effect repairs or 
                modifications at his dock. From there, I would continue to Ancolote 
                Key and then to Honeymoon Island just north of Clearwater. Rather 
                then striking straight out across the gulf the 57 nautical miles 
                to Port Richey, my track would lead me along the coastline and 
                afford the opportunity to explore grounds new to me. 
              I arrived in Cedar key on December 
                3rd, accompanied by my wife Nancy and my mom, just before noon 
                at low tide and a dying breeze. By the time Zoë 
                was in the water and I had her sail up, there was no wind at all. 
                After good byes all around, I shipped the yuloh and headed out 
                to the channel where a light breeze left a wind line. It was 12:40, 
                Dec. 3rd 2001. 
               Mr. Yuloh and I were still not 
                great friends at this juncture, and after about twenty minuets 
                of trying to get it to stay on it’s bronze ball, I decided 
                I would either have to come up with a way to keep it there or 
                replace it with a sculling notch upon my return home. Shortly, 
                I hit on the idea of securing a line to the base of the pivot 
                in such a way as to leave a long tail on both sides. The yuloh 
                was then mounted, and the line tied around its shaft such that 
                it was captive to the ball but allowed to move all around. Finally, 
                off we went sculling down channel. 
               Off and on for the next hour the 
                breeze would fill in from behind only to die away after a while, 
                and I would alternately scull and sail. The good news was that 
                in these zephyrs of about 5 mph Zoë 
                would accelerate rapidly to between 2.5 and 3kts as reported by 
                the GPS. 
               While I was launching Zoë, 
                two men were in the process of loading their sea kayaks with camping 
                gear, and it wasn’t long before I could see them paddling 
                past and along the shoreline. I elected to get away from the shore 
                a little in hopes of finding some wind, and about 2:30 the breeze 
                filled in from behind and held. The wind, though light, was sufficient 
                to get Zoë up to a whopping 4kts, 
                the fastest she had sailed yet. At this speed she was only ¾ 
                knot away from her calculated hull speed. The wind could not have 
                been more then 8kts at this time, and the sea was very smooth. 
                
               By 3:30 I had picked out a likely 
                anchorage in the mouth of Deep Creek and set my course for it. 
                I caught sight of the sea kayakers, far back and along the shore; 
                I had regained the lead. Around 4:30, the wind veered into the 
                northeast and forced me to come up hard on the wind for a forty-five 
                minute beat to an anchorage in the west pass to Deep Creek. While 
                beating, the kayakers caught up to me and headed into the west 
                pass where there appeared to be a small hammock suitable for camping. 
                I elected to give them some privacy and altered course for the 
                east pass. 
               After getting my anchor down and 
                setting about the evening chores, I noted the kayakers underway 
                behind me paddling to the east. It was now 5:30, and the sun was 
                setting. With only about 30 minutes of daylight left and no camping 
                areas in sight their plight was grim indeed and I could only imagine 
                how they would have to search for a suitable campsite in the dark. 
                I, on the other hand, reveled in the fact that my habitat was 
                secured to the bottom and I needed only prepare my evening meal 
                and turn down my bed, a warm and dry place to sleep having previously 
                been assured. 
               For a mattress, I had on board 
                one of the inflatable type of twin size, cheaply procured from 
                Wal-Mart prior to departure. I found that it was easily inflated 
                with a 12 volt pump designed for the purpose, but that it took 
                all of seven minutes to accomplish the task. Once the pump was 
                removed and the mattress dropped into place, it was a pain to 
                pull it up and add more air should it be needed. The fit, however, 
                was perfect for the interior of Zoë 
                and once in place and properly inflated, it was grand indeed to 
                lay under the open hatch, wrapped in my sleeping bag, and watch 
                the stars dance through the window of the hatch frame. 
               5:45 the morning of 4 Dec. found 
                me up and about, and while it took seven minutes to inflate my 
                mattress, it deflates in less then one and is easily folded in 
                thirds and rolled up to be stowed in the “forward stateroom” 
                along with my pillow and sleeping bag, thus clearing the main 
                cabin in as little as 5 minutes, less if I don’t take the 
                time to bag the sleeping bag. All the while my coffee has been 
                brewing on the little gimbaled stove which resides in the port 
                aft locker. When brewed, the coffee is transferred into a thermos 
                and the pot cleaned to receive more water, which is brought to 
                a boil and poured into a large mouth thermos containing Ramen 
                or instant rice. Once capped a hot lunch is assured with no cooking 
                hassles. Before I was able to put my lunch water on, I noticed 
                that the tide was ebbing at such a rate as to leave me high and 
                dry if I did not get myself into deeper water quickly. I darted 
                forward, weighed anchor and sculled/drifted out the mouth of Deep 
                Creek, where I once again anchored until I was ready to leave. 
               I finished my pre-underway chores 
                while enjoying a first cup of coffee and listening to a pair of 
                loons paddling nearby. I was not aware until this time that loons 
                frequented this area on their migrations. 
               By 7:10 I was underway, having 
                stowed the ground tackle in the aft starboard locker. You may 
                wonder what it is like walking around on the deck of such a small 
                boat. Well, it is initially like walking around on the gunwale 
                of a canoe with the exception that, properly ballasted, the Paradox 
                stops short (about 8”) of putting her rail under. It takes 
                awhile to get your confidence up that she won’t get you 
                wet, but by the end of my trip, I was walking down her side deck 
                with a retrieved anchor, chain and rode in a canvas bag without 
                a worry; whereas at the beginning of the trip I was hunched over 
                the cabin gripping the mast for fear of a capsize as I went fore 
                and aft. 
                
               I left the anchorage in a 10kt 
                breeze from the NE that allowed me to broad reach on a course 
                that would take me out to sea about 5 miles - which I allowed 
                as enough of a clearance around the nuclear power plant at Crystal 
                River to be safe from their security zone should one be in place. 
                A 7:30 entry in my log records that we were doing speeds of 4.8 
                to 5kts, and as the winds increased during the morning, our speed 
                did likewise. By midmorning in a 12 to 15kt wind the GPS indicated 
                a sustained speed of 5.5kts with bursts to 5.9. Later, I was to 
                note that the max speed recorded by the GPS was 6.3, but I never 
                actually saw it that high. 
               With the sea state up to 
                about three feet and occasionally rolling into our starboard stern 
                quarter, sending spray up to and over the hatch, I decided it 
                would be a good time to try out the below decks helm station. 
                Folding the seat into its stowed position, I arranged my seat 
                cushion, which has a built in back rest, to port, and closed the 
                hatch. It was simply delightful; here I was completely protected 
                from the elements, a cup of hot coffee in one hand and the tiller 
                line in the other as we boiled along at a steady 5.5kts. The only 
                thing I want to add is a port in the hatch, so that I can see 
                the sail in order to properly trim while steering from below. 
                I have left room between the end of the hatch and the solar panel 
                for this eventuality.  
                
              The helm, while very light, had 
                enough weather helm in it that I decided to play with getting 
                Zoë to steer herself. To this end, 
                I tied a short section of line to the aft bulkhead thru the tiller 
                line exit hole in such a way as to allow me to put a rolling hitch 
                around the tiller line with the other end. In this way, I could 
                add or subtract tension on the tiller line by sliding the rolling 
                hitch back and forth. After some fiddling, a degree of success 
                was attained, and I was allowed the freedom of a few minutes away 
                from the helm to attend to such matters as reading the chart and 
                fixing my position, pouring another cup of coffee, or later in 
                the evening, fixing myself a drink. The success was limited in 
                that any gust of wind would send her up to windward, and while 
                I was often able to bring her back by just a quick pull in the 
                weather direction, as often as not, I would be required to start 
                the fiddling all over. I deemed it unsatisfactory on a broad reach 
                to the extent that I will fit an Autohelm 800 from my spares locker 
                at home for the next trip, so that I will be allowed to read while 
                in transit. Later in the trip I had the opportunity to use the 
                same setup while beating to windward and found that Zoë 
                self-steered to windward very satisfactorily, as do most sailboats. 
                
               My log also records that at 9:20 
                the first fish of the trip was caught and landed. Of it’s 
                type, I am uncertain, but think it was a scorpion fish. At any 
                rate, it looked unsavory enough that I returned it to the sea, 
                four others were eventually caught during the trip and likewise 
                released. I will go on record that I am not a sport fisherman, 
                lacking the patience to sit and soak a worm so to speak, but I 
                do love a fresh fish dinner. To this end, my tackle box is very 
                rudimentary, consisting of a very heavy line - that some have 
                referred to as weed whacker line, with a heavy steel leader on 
                one end and a bungee cord on the other which I affix to one of 
                the stern cleats. I’m more often than not attending to more 
                pressing matters such as reading when a fish takes a liking to 
                my bait which is usually just a piece of white or red rag on a 
                suitable hook. I’m generally made aware that “I have 
                one on” when I look aft and see the fish skipping across 
                the surface having long since drowned in the case of a small/slow 
                one or a bow string tight bungee cord in the case of a big/fast 
                one. For this trip, I substituted a Johnson Silver Minnow for 
                bait, and light line and leader, which later would prove a mistake 
                as I approached my brother’s the following day. Another 
                “must have” for the truly indolent fisherman is a 
                squirt bottle filled with denatured alcohol. A fellow cruiser 
                in Venezuela introduced this item to me years ago. Once landed, 
                a fish will often as not want to make good his escape and even 
                if you should want this for him as well (as in the case of a barracuda), 
                you will probably want to retain your lure. Enter the alcohol; 
                a quick squirt down the trashing beast’s mouth and over 
                his gills will instantly transform him into a hunk of peaceful 
                flesh, allowing you to retrieve your lure and dispose of him in 
                the way of your choice. Lacking denatured alcohol any alcohol 
                will do, although a doctor friend has warned me that isopropyl 
                should not be used as it is not good for our systems, and many 
                are the times I have had to blow a mouthful of good rum down a 
                fish’s mouth for want of denatured alcohol. Such was to 
                be the case the following day as I approached my brother’s 
                canal. I landed a Spanish mackerel of about eight pounds. While 
                fumbling with the rum bottle and dangling the mackerel from the 
                leader, the fish succeeded in breaking the leader and making off 
                with my lure. This was especially painful as it would have been 
                a great dinner offering for that evening. Live and learn, no more 
                light tackle. 
               Later in the day, there 
                was some excitement while sailing through the channel leading 
                into the cross Florida barge canal. I was steering to go midway 
                between two spoil islands and traveling at around 5kts when I 
                saw waves breaking directly ahead of me, I might add that it is 
                very hard to see breaking waves from the back side. Realizing 
                it was a shallow spoil area, I quickly headed up and was able 
                to clear it, barely. Zoë almost 
                had her first high speed grounding, an item not on the sea trial 
                check list. 
               By 1:00 pm the winds had fallen 
                off, and we were off the Bird Keys and the St. Martin Keys. I 
                had hoped to stop here and do some exploring, but found the tide 
                down so far that it was dry out about a mile from the keys, so 
                I fell off and continued SE. A 2:00 pm log entry reports: “ 
                for the last few hours we have been sailing over water so shallow 
                that you can occasionally hear the grass scraping on the bottom. 
                The water is very clear and it is amazing that we are still sailing 
                at 2.8 to 3.2kts. This is so much FUN!” 
               Around 5:00 pm I was able to get 
                an anchor down behind a very small key about a mile and a half 
                offshore amongst the Chassahowitzka Reefs. We had made good a 
                distance of a little more then 33 nautical miles, in first moderate 
                and then light airs, certainly a better showing then the previous 
                days 11.8 nautical miles. I could see Crawl Key to the south about 
                a half-mile away, but decided to stay put because I was afraid 
                if I went any farther I might not find any better anchorage, and 
                it might be worse. As it turned out, the next day the choice was 
                a good one. I had hoped to get out and stretch my legs, but the 
                tide was so high that there was nothing but saw grass and scrub 
                to walk around in. Having only about an hour of daylight left, 
                I decided to get dinner out of the way and then catch up on my 
                log (I record the day’s events on a micro recorder and then 
                transcribe into my logbook). After preparing a one-pot meal in 
                my pressure cooker, I wolfed it down, surprising myself at how 
                hungry I was. One of the great things about the Paradox design 
                is that when it comes time to do the dishes, one only needs to 
                lean over and the boat rolls down enough that you can wash up 
                in the sea water without the need to bring water aboard in a bucket. 
                If you do need to use a bucket, because of very shallow water 
                or if you are dried out, it is handy to stand at the back of the 
                hatch with the bucket on the after deck while you take care of 
                your chores. 
               Just as I finished my meal, 
                the wind veered enough so as to take away the protection once 
                offered by the small key, and a chop began developing. I went 
                forward and weighed anchor, returned aft and shipped the yuloh 
                and sculled my way into quieter waters and anchored anew. This 
                was accomplished without tying down the shaft, so the training 
                device was working. By this time, I was also much more comfortable 
                walking up and down the side deck. 
                
               That night, as I lay upon 
                my poorly inflated mattress and contemplated the stars overhead, 
                I began to question the virtues of my bed. The air chambers were 
                long tubes like the ones popular for floating on in pools, and 
                as such, it was not as comfortable as it had been the previous 
                night when I was so tired that I had fallen asleep within minutes 
                of laying my head down. I considered how annoying it was to inflate 
                it while listening to the howling blower motor for an unseeingly 
                long seven minutes, only to find that after I had put the inflator 
                away, I would now need to get back up and add more air. Would 
                a good quality self-inflating camping pad be the answer? I would 
                have to wait until I got to Gary’s to get one. Other than 
                that, I dosed off feeling very fortunate to be micro-cruising 
                in such splendid comfort aboard a little vessel of my own building, 
                and one which was so well appointed thanks to the attention Matt 
                Layden had given her when he designed the Paradox. 
               The morning of the 5th found me 
                lounging in bed as the sun lit up the sky thru a light fog. A 
                pair of loons communed in the distance, and the sound of fish 
                breaking the surface drifted over the glass smooth water to where 
                I lay thinking of what the day would bring. The distance to Gary’s 
                channel entrance was approximately 22 miles, so there was no need 
                to hurry with breakfast and the morning chores. I reached up and 
                slid back the hatch and peered into what little sky broke thru 
                the low fog. Switching on the VHF weather channel, I was informed 
                that the day promised to be a nice one with winds forecast from 
                the northeast at 8 to 12kts veering into the east as the day wore 
                on. 
               After stowing my sleeping gear, 
                I put on a pot of coffee, fixed myself a light breakfast, prepared 
                a lunch of Ramen in my thermos, and made ready to get underway 
                by washing and stowing all lose gear. The anchor was aboard by 
                0735 and after raising sail, I settled on a port tack course that 
                would clear all hazards and take us to the entrance channel to 
                Gary’s house. What a wonderful morning sail we were having 
                as Zoë skipped along at 4.6 kts 
                over a smooth sea whose surface was broken every now and again 
                by startled mullet who happened to stray into our path. As we 
                passed Crawl Key, I could see that there was no better anchorage 
                then the one we enjoyed the previous evening, and it too was not 
                very interesting at close range. I was disappointed at the lack 
                of interesting keys for a shoal water sailor to explore along 
                this stretch of coast. 
               The morning wind was steady and 
                our point of sail sufficient that Zoë 
                would sail herself without the need for attention long enough 
                that I was allowed to read and watch the sea roll by. I streamed 
                the fishing tackle from the starboard stern cleat and settled 
                in with a copy of Steinbeck’s “Of Mice and Men”, 
                occasionally glancing at the compass or scanning the sea in all 
                directions to insure our own survival. This was the type of sailing 
                I loved. 
               About 10:30, I glanced at the 
                fishing line and noticed we had a fish on. It turned out to be 
                the large Spanish mackerel I mentioned earlier. After resetting 
                the tackle and streaming it once again, I went back to my “watch 
                keeping”. 
               12:40 found us off the entrance 
                to Gary’s house, but the tide was so far out that even Zoë 
                with her 9” draft could not get closer then about ½ 
                mile. I dropped and stowed sail and attempted to scull and pole 
                my way in but was soon aground. No problem, I set out the anchor 
                and made up my bunk for a little nap while awaiting the tide. 
                What a rough life! 
               By 2:00 the tide was up enough 
                that I could start the scull to windward, and this I did, but 
                I first tied down the yuloh with the “training device” 
                knowing that I would be at it for a while. Along the way I passed 
                some gentlemen fishing from a pontoon boat. We hailed each other 
                and many kind words were spoken of Zoë; 
                I beamed with pride as we sculled on. It took a little over an 
                hour to cover the 1.6-mile trek up the channel to Gary’s 
                dock. As I rounded the corner of their channel, I found Gary and 
                his wife Sue waiting and waving, having been alerted to my arrival 
                by a cell phone call just before weighing anchor. It wasn’t 
                long before Zoë was tied to their 
                dock, and all was made secure. A glance at the GPS showed a distance 
                of 25.1 nautical miles made for the day. 
               I spent the 6th of Dec. tied up 
                to Gary’s dock, while I took care of some minor problems 
                which had developed. One problem was that the tang on the end 
                of the boom was not stiff enough and would bend inward and occasionally 
                bind while rolling the main up. This would cause the main sheet 
                to be furled around the sail and lock everything up. Of course 
                this would happen while I was looking forward, so by the time 
                I discovered the problem, I would have a mess on my hands and 
                have to hoist the main and untangle everything. Also, I found 
                that the sail was not as easy to furl as I had hoped because as 
                the main halyard was slacked, the sail would fall, making it difficult 
                to haul in the furling line. Everything seemed to work fine if 
                I supported the boom while furling. The only way to do this and 
                free up both hands to control the halyard and furling line was 
                to let the boom rest on the coach roof while furling. I felt a 
                topping lift would solve the problem, so I rigged a temporary 
                one to try on the remainder of the trip. At a craft store close 
                to Gary’s house, I acquired some leather scraps and used 
                them to make holsters for pens, pencils, flashlight and knife 
                by nailing the leather to appropriate places on the bulkheads 
                and uprights, thus ensuring they would fall easily to hand when 
                needed. 
               The 7th dawned clear with a light 
                offshore breeze, and after a cup of coffee with my host and hugs 
                all around, I walked down to Zoë 
                and cast off. A pull on the new topping lift, and the furled sail 
                came up ready to be hoisted. The Paradox is lug rigged, thereby 
                requiring the topping lift to lie on one side or the other of 
                the sail. I had rigged it to lie on the starboard side, and attention 
                was needed for the first few feet to insure the yard did not get 
                on the wrong side during rising. The sail went up without a problem, 
                and we were away at 08:30. The sail down the channel and into 
                the Gulf were uneventful and took only 15 minuets, having the 
                wind and current with me. 
               Once into the Gulf, I decided 
                to sail around and explore a few of the many stilt homes that 
                have been built about a quarter mile offshore. After picking out 
                an interesting looking one, I hardened up on the port tack and 
                Zoë and I sailed over for a closer 
                look. As we approached, I had fantasies of living out here in 
                the gulf on just such a home built up above the water. As I got 
                closer the attractiveness began to tarnish. The home, while in 
                good repair, seemed lonely and sad; the stench of seabird guano 
                grew more appalling with every foot we approached. When we were 
                actually downwind, the stench made my stomach churn. I quickly 
                jibed over onto the starboard tack and made haste to depart the 
                offensive area, so much for fantasies of stilt homes. 
               Once I had cleared the area enough 
                to jibe back over onto the port tack, I did so and set a course 
                for the northern end of Ancolote Key; the idea being to approach 
                from up wind and then fall off and sail down the coast as close 
                as I could get to do some exploring. In this fashion, should something 
                interesting ashore catch my eye, it would be a simple matter to 
                round up and beach Zoë. 
               With well over an hour to arrival, 
                I figured I might as well get out the fishing gear and try my 
                luck. In short order, I had a line over and had settled down for 
                a delightful morning sail. This was the first time that I had 
                been running free on the trip and, shortly it dawned on me that 
                we were not rolling. I had been concerned during the building 
                of Zoë that because there was no 
                boom vang she would have a tendency to roll her guts out when 
                off the wind. I was sailing along at 4.3 kts downwind with only 
                a very slight and by no means uncomfortable oscillation about 
                the roll axis. After thinking about it for a little while, I can 
                only surmise that the chine runners were acting as roll dampers, 
                or perhaps the balanced lug rig is not prone to inducing roll 
                off the wind. Whatever the case, it was a pleasant surprise and 
                endeared the little Paradox design to me even more. 
               By the time we reached the north 
                end of Ancolote Key, the wind had died to almost nothing, and 
                we ghosted along the Eastern Shore at about a knot and a half. 
                I did manage to catch another small scorpion fish and release 
                him. At this speed, the fishing line is more trouble than it is 
                worth, so I stowed it away. 
               Ahead of me, a steel cutter of 
                about 30 feet lay to anchor, and my track would take me down her 
                port side for a closer look. As I approached, a weather-beaten 
                old man appeared from the hatch and spoke of his overnight passage 
                from Pensacola. He was very proud of the fact that his old rusty 
                girl had averaged 5 kts for the passage and having just arrived, 
                was getting ready to retire to his berth for a well-earned sleep. 
                I bid him pleasant dreams and continued on my way. 
               My destination was an attractive 
                beach near the south end, and upon arrival I sailed Zoë 
                right up onto the beach. Taking my anchor bag in hand I stepped 
                overboard and waded ashore where I set the anchor and then walked 
                back and made the line fast to the bow cleat. An abandoned lighthouse 
                stands guard over this end of the key, and I gathered my camera 
                to go and have a look. I walked along the beach marveling at the 
                absence of people. It being a Saturday, I had anticipated a fleet 
                of boats and their crews enjoying the beautiful beaches here. 
                
                
              Once at the lighthouse, I climbed 
                to the top and surveyed the island. Zoë 
                lay peacefully at anchor to the west with her bow touching the 
                beach just as I had left her. Around the south end of the island, 
                a creek opened up and led into a beautiful and protected anchorage. 
                Across the sand spit guarding the anchorage, a clean white sandy 
                beach stretch for miles to the northwest end of the island. A 
                fishing boat of about 30 or 40 feet appeared shipwrecked up the 
                coast a half a mile or so. On the northeastern side another anchorage 
                surrounded by mangrove was accessible from the south and a character 
                type cabin cruiser lay to anchor there. I took a number of pictures 
                and then descended the long circular stairway as a young couple 
                made their way to the top. 
               Back at Zoë, 
                I elected to shove off and sail around to the anchorage on the 
                westside. Within minutes, we were underway and after a pleasant 
                sail around the southern tip, I was able to test Zoë's 
                short tacking ability as we entered the mouth of the tidal creek. 
                The starboard tack was favored, and we were able to sail almost 
                to the shoreline. After about six tacks in which Zoë 
                never failed to come about, we found ourselves in a bay of sorts 
                and sailed to within a few feet of the western shore and anchored 
                for the evening. 
                
              Jumping overboard into ankle deep 
                water, I made my way across the sand spit to the beach and took 
                a stroll toward the wreck seen from the lighthouse. I hadn’t 
                gone far when a light rain began to fall, so I turned and headed 
                back. Across the bay from me a man was walking northward; he waved 
                in my direction, and I waved back and continued on to Zoë 
                where I boarded and closed the hatch to escape the rain. After 
                fixing myself a drink, I settled down with a book and was thus 
                occupied when the afore mentioned stranger showed up alongside. 
                I opened the hatch and greeted him. He introduced himself as Mark 
                van Abbema, a fellow sharpie enthusiast. I climbed 
                out of Zoë and closed the hatch 
                to keep the rain out and we chatted about the relative merits 
                of sharpies all the while getting soaked to the bone. As it turned 
                out, Mark was the owner of the cabin cruiser, Heart 
                of Gold II, anchored in the mangrove bay on 
                the east side of the island. The previous year I had been anchored 
                in Ft. Myers Beach where a very attractive small cabin cruiser 
                by the name of Heart of Gold was also 
                anchored. As it turned out, she had been his and was sold to build 
                 Heart of Gold II. Mark invited me to 
                come over the next day for a visit. After promising to do just 
                that, we parted company. As he strolled back in the rain, I climbed 
                back aboard and shed my wet clothes for dry. I looked forward 
                the next day’s visit and inspection of Mark’s new 
                boat. 
                
              I awoke the morning of the 8th 
                to find Zoë high and dry, the tide 
                having gone out some hours before. A fresh pot of coffee was put 
                on, and by the time it was ready all aboard was ship shape and 
                ready to go sailing when the tide returned. I took the opportunity 
                to do some beach combing and walked about halfway up the beach 
                past the wreck, which turned out to be a fiberglass inboard probably 
                washed up during a storm. The beach here is a delight to walk 
                on, clean white sand and fairly firm under foot. I marveled at 
                the lack of trash so often found on Florida beaches. It seemed 
                I had the whole of Ancolote Key to myself, the only visible signs 
                of humanity were the fishing boats out on the Gulf, and they were 
                far enough out that their engines could not be heard. 
               Arriving back at Zoë, 
                I found the tide not quite high enough to float her, so I set 
                about fixing myself a big southern breakfast of bacon, eggs and 
                grits. By the time the dishes were done we were free of the bottom. 
               Sail was set, and we ghosted out 
                of the bay at 10:10 am. It took a little over an hour in the light 
                breeze to sail back around the southern tip and up into the mangrove 
                bay where Heart of Gold II lay anchored. 
                As I approached, Mark, who had been up on the north end of the 
                island exploring, returned and bid me welcome. Shortly, Zoë 
                was hanging off the stern along side Heart of Gold 
                II’s tender, which I might add was almost 
                as long as she. 
                
              The first thing one notices when 
                stepping into the saloon of Heart of Gold II 
                is how light and airy she is. While only having a beam of 8 feet 
                she has a little over 6 and a half ft of headroom and large windows 
                that light up a very comfortable interior. After a week aboard 
                Zoë, I felt as though I was in 
                a palace. There is no bilge, so you stand on the inside of the 
                hull, which is varnished tongue and groove fir. There is a long 
                desk down the port side and a couch that converts to a double 
                over seven feet long on the starboard side. Going forward, there 
                is a head and a pantry port and starboard and then the pilothouse. 
                Mark plans on marketing building 
                drawings for her, so keep an eye out if you’re 
                interested in a very comfortable shoal draft motorboat with a 
                lot of character. 
              The remainder of the morning and 
                early afternoon was spent visiting with Mark and listening to 
                tails of his adventures after the launch and subsequent trip down 
                the Missouri and Mississippi Rivers and across the Gulf of Mexico 
                to Ancolote Key. It would have been easy to while away a few days 
                exploring and chatting with Mark, but my time was running short, 
                so I bid farewell and following seas, slipped Zoë’s 
                tether and set sail in a dying breeze for the eastern end of Honeymoon 
                Island. 
              It was all I could do to make it 
                to a small spoil Island about two miles north of my destination 
                before dark, but once there I was able to find shelter from the 
                wake of motorboat traffic behind it. After getting the anchor 
                down and dinner out of the way, I settled down for a little reading 
                before retiring. It wasn’t long before the gentle motion 
                and night sounds lulled me to sleep. 
              The 9th dawned clear with the barest 
                of breezes stirring the pine needles on the casuarinas trees ashore. 
                I had arranged to meet Nancy just after noon, so I had the whole 
                morning to make it to the haulout area. A leisurely cup of coffee 
                was followed by the completion of my morning chores, and Zoë 
                was ready to go. 
              What wind there was came 
                from the southeast, and a slight current ran against us making 
                the final leg of this trip a claw to weather against a foul tide. 
                I took one long tack toward the northwestern end of Honeymoon 
                Island causeway in hopes of finding shallow water and less current 
                as well as to explore the area. It turned out to be a good choice; 
                there was little current, and the area was beautiful and full 
                of wildlife. Tacking over onto starboard, I made my way east along 
                the causeway toward the bridge, which I would have to transit. 
                I positioned myself as far to weather of the center span as possible 
                and tacked over. The current was at its strongest here, and two 
                more tacks were required to get under the bridge where all wind 
                was lost. The yuloh practice really paid off here, as I was able 
                to quickly put it in motion, and sculling as hard as I could, 
                managed to stem the current and get through the bridge, where 
                I was able to fall off enough to gather way under sail again. 
               I picked out a place on 
                the beach that looked to be good for a haulout and nosed Zoë 
                ashore, ending my first real cruise with her. As I prepared her 
                for hauling out, I reflected on my trip and the enjoyment it had 
                given me. There is real wonder in building a boat from scratch 
                and seeing her floating before you after months of hard labor, 
                and it can only be eclipsed by the delight it serves you during 
                use. Oh yes, there are still things to do; a skylight must be 
                installed in the hatch, a chart table would sure be nice to keep 
                the chart off the deck, a permanent topping lift controlled from 
                below and let’s not forget that all important mattress. 
                Another real pain in the butt, literally, is the seat board. No 
                matter which cushion arrangement I tried, it was not long before 
                my rear end was complaining about the hardness of the seat. Problems 
                I put my thoughts to solving while I awaited my ride home. 
               
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