The 
                    Hand Bilge Pump
                    Putting the water back where it belongs
                   We are just about over the summer sailing season as I write, 
                    and for the many of us who dont get out so much over the winter 
                    there is an opportunity to rectify a whole seasons worth of 
                    neglect and abuse of the boats systems.
                   There may be a little water in the bilge sump, perhaps condensation 
                    and a little spray that came aboard through a hatch left slightly 
                    open to let some air in. The missing three of spades and a 
                    pair of underpants (the activities were NOT connected) have 
                    joined the half roll of paper towels that went down the gap 
                    at the back of the locker, a whole seasons odds and ends have 
                    also ended up in the lowest part of the boat and the whole 
                    lot has been sloshed about by a seasons active sailing becoming 
                    a noisome sludge that is indigestible by even the most voracious 
                    of bilge pumps.
                   Along comes our hero, the boat is motored over to the haulout 
                    with the foul brew lurking under the floorboards making the 
                    boat not the nicest of places to be with the hatches shut 
                    so our hero forsakes his normal place, posed behind the helm 
                    (heroically of course) and heeding his wife’s threats 
                    never to go sailing again if the boat smells like that he 
                    ventures below to pump the mess out. You must be kidding!!!
                   Just as well it wasn’t a leak that prompted the attempt 
                    to use what is, after all, an emergency device.!
                    
                    A diaphram pump such as we use is very similar through a wide 
                    range of brands, Jabsco, Edison, Vetus and Whale are among 
                    the best known but most of them share the basic principals 
                    and differ very little one from another and all bar a very 
                    few can be stripped fairly easily for service. 
                  Self priming in an installation where the pump is no more 
                    than a couple of metres above the inlet , able to move a lot 
                    of water in a hurry, ( although there is a saying that the 
                    most effective bilge pump of all is a frightened sailor with 
                    a bucket) and generally capable of pumping water contaminated 
                    with a fair amount of rubbish the diaphram bilge pump is a 
                    wonderful device eminently suited to our sport. However the 
                    awful slurry that accumulates in some boats, or the mess that 
                    is floated by an incoming rush of water from a damaged skin 
                    fitting or engine cooling system will choke even the largest 
                    mouthed of the type.
                   Oddly enough the boat with “dusty bilges” is 
                    not without risk of bilge pump failure, like anything that 
                    does not get used for long periods , when desperately needed 
                    it may have become so unaccustomed to work that it may not. 
                    Don’t skip the servicing and do check the function with 
                    a bucket of water a couple of times a season.
                   Also a problem in a dry boat is the steady accumulation 
                    of tiny odds and ends under the cabin sole. From normal dust 
                    and fluff to the occasional (unlit I hope) match dropped when 
                    rolling in a seaway these little bits are without peer when 
                    it comes to preventing the function of the valves inside the 
                    desperately needed pump trying to keep a previously always 
                    dry boat afloat. The dry boat, while the most desirable kind, 
                    has problems of her own. Make a tidy up down there in the 
                    bilges part of the normal housekeeping in any kind of boat.
                   One hopes never to need the services of your bilge pump, 
                    but like other (more expensive) forms of insurance it had 
                    better work if you need it. Being a bit “out of sight 
                    out of mind “ it pays to check the installation out 
                    now and again before Murphy’s Law strikes and you need 
                    it with a vengeance.
                   Note that I said to check the installation out. By that 
                    I mean that the pump does not work in splendid isolation, 
                    you need to look over the entire system not just the pump. 
                    Start with the pickup end of the inlet hose, if allowed to 
                    pick up some of that mess I have been on about you wont be 
                    pumping, you’ll be swimming.
                   A “ strum box” is the way to protect the pump 
                    from clogging and to be effective it needs to be a big one. 
                    Rather like a mesh cage, or a box well perforated with holes 
                    , small enough ones to stop anything that might clog the pump, 
                    and numerous enough to pass the pumps rated capacity in water 
                    even when partly clogged itself. One of my more knowledgeable 
                    contacts recommends a surface area in the strum box of at 
                    least 20 times the cross section of the inlet hose. Yes, it 
                    is big!
                   Next link in the system is the pickup hose itself, as a 
                    suction line this is a vital piece of equipment. Suction will 
                    tend to collapse the hose if weak or bent around a tight turn, 
                    and any leaks in hose or end fittings will admit air that 
                    could render the pump ineffective. 
                  Check the hose for condition and re-route it if necessary 
                    to take the kinks out, replace the fittings if they show even 
                    the slightest sign of deterioration. Make sure you use stainless 
                    steel hose clips or fittings or you will be having to renew 
                    them next season, and the one after.
                   Diaphragm pumps are very simple, there is a pump chamber 
                    with one, or two valves to control the water in and out, the 
                    chamber has one side made of a flexible material which is 
                    moved in and out by the lever on which the operator swings. 
                    This makes the chamber larger then smaller, sucking water 
                    in through one valve , then forcing it out through the other 
                    valve and so overboard. these valves are , together with the 
                    diaphragm itself, critical to the operation of the pump. Normally 
                    a simple flap they should be very flexible, without any cracking 
                    or damage to the seating or valve material, any cupping or 
                    curling will prevent the valve from sealing properly so if 
                    any of these problems are evident it is a replacement job.
                   A major wear point of any pump is the diaphragm itself, 
                    continually flexed in and out it can eventually crack or split, 
                    a few might perish over time so all require careful inspection 
                    at regular intervals.
                   Around the edges the seal between the body of the pump and 
                    the diaphragm should be perfect . While the edge seal can 
                    be helped with appropriate sealing compound if a persistent 
                    leak is evident this is not the ideal repair. Some are gasketed, 
                    some are secured by screws and some have a plastic ring that 
                    may bulge if over tightened and suck air rather than water. 
                    In fact when using metal screw or bolts in plastic components 
                    it pays not to do them up too tight in any case. I do use 
                    a smear of Anhydrous Lanolin ( wool grease without the smell) 
                    on my pump parts but do check that it is compatible with the 
                    synthetic rubbers used.
                   Some of the better pumps have a “door” in the 
                    front to allow rapid access and clearance of the valves if 
                    blocked so check the gasket and the closing mechanism. If 
                    retained by a screw threaded nut or bolt make sure this is 
                    free and not immoveable with corrosion. While at it check 
                    the interaction of the various metals within the pump, dissimilar 
                    metals can suffer from electrolytic corrosion and I have seen 
                    alloy bodied pumps bolted down with brass bolts, a sure recipe 
                    for disaster!
                   Mechanically speaking there are very few parts to worry 
                    about, two or three pivot pins, all of which should be positively 
                    retained ( check the split rings or securing split pins, never 
                    use split pins twice.) and not sloppy in their bearings, the 
                    handles stowage is also an important part of the pumps functionality 
                    so make sure it is going to be “right there “ 
                    even after a full rollover.
                   Mounting the pump correctly is vital., the mounting has 
                    to be strong enough to cope with a panicky pumper , the bolts 
                    need to be big, well washered, fitted with locknuts and very 
                    strong. The pump has to be positioned so that pumping is easy 
                    and can be sustained for a long time and last but not least 
                    every part of the system needs to be easy to get at to unblock 
                    or repair.
                   Finally, the outlet hose. As this is under pressure it can 
                    be a little “sad” and still function but while 
                    you are in overhaul mode why not check it for routing, fittings, 
                    condition and length. Look hard at the through hull fitting 
                    too, you might end up energetically pumping the water back 
                    into the boat!
                   Water and boats have a love hate relationship, Love the 
                    stuff outside, hate it inside. Your bilge pump is an essential 
                    part of keeping this relationship a livable one so look after 
                    that so often neglected pump and never forget that it is part 
                    of a system, very simple sure but still, all parts of it have 
                    to work.
                   
                    Who knows from experience how fast a frightened man with 
                    a bucket can move water.