In this discussion, I’ll describe a simple   approach to shaping a slab of stock to result in reasonably close approximation   of a NACA symmetrical four-digit foil.  
                
              click image for PDF version 
              This approach, like in spar making, is to   layout the stock so that material can be removed in a controlled, measureable,   repeatable way.  Because each cut is planer, progress is easily assessed   and the completion of a particular cut is easily verified.  
              This method works well regardless of the   thickness-to-chord width ratio and regardless of whether the plan form or   thickness is regular or varying.  
                
              click image for PDF version 
              STEP 1 – SQUARE OFF   STOCK  
              Start by making the stock for the board   rectangular in cross section.  The simplest boards will be rectangular in   plan form.  But, if varying in width, mark and cut the board to its plan   form shape now, though keep all lines straight until final shaping.  Also,   if the board is to vary in thickness (this is typical when the chord varies),   taper the board now, but keep it rectangular in cross   section.  
              STEP 2 – MARK CENTERLINE, ALL   EDGES  
              Mark the centerline on the leading,   trailing, tip, and top edges of the blank.  These lines need to remain   until final sanding, so mark them clearly.  
                
              click image for PDF version 
              STEP 3 – MARK CUT   OFFSETS 
              Refer to the FoilCuts sketches for the cut   offsets.  Mark both the first cuts and second cuts marks on the tip and top   edges.  You may want to use different colored markings to help avoid   confusing the two sets of cuts.  You can also mark the second cuts offsets   after you make the first cuts, if you like. 
              STEP 4 – EXTEND CUT OFFSETS TO FACES AND   LEADING AND TRAILING EDGES 
              Extend the cut offsets to the faces and   leading and trailing edges of the board.  These are the marks to which you   plane or sand off the corners.   
              STEP 5 – FIRST CUTS – PLANE TO CUT   OFFSETS  
              Using a plane or a sander or some other   means, cut off the four corners to make the board eight   sided.  
              STEP 6 – SECOND CUTS – PLANE TO   OFFSETS  
              Now, remove the next set of corners to   make the board sixteen-sided.  You may want to restore the second cuts   lines on the faces of the board – some will have been removed by the first   cuts.  
              STEP 7 – PLANE REMAINING   CORNERS 
              Once the second shaping cuts are made, the   board, with its sixteen faces, will be very close to the final shape.  It   may be worthwhile to use a hand plane to knock down the most prominent remaining   corners along the leading edge.   
              STEP 8 – SAND   SMOOTH 
              The final shaping is done by   sanding.  Round all break points, corners,   etc. 
              DEALING WITH VARYING   SECTIONS  
              If the board has a varying plan form, the   method still works, but the layout becomes a bit more complex.  For   example, for a board that tapers from 12 inches at the upper end to 9 inches at   the (lower) tip, mark the offsets using a chord of 12 inches at the upper end   and the offsets for 9 inches at the lower end, and connect the marks by drawing   a straight line on the faces.  If there is a distinct break point somewhere   in the plan form, add additional layout marks based on the chord width at the   break points. 
              Keep in mind that if the width of the   board varies, then the thickness must vary proportionally if you want the same   section throughout the foil.  For example, if the board varies width from   12 inches to 9 inches, the board should be 1 ½ inches at the 12 inch wide end   and 9/12 x 1 ½ inches, or 1 1/8 inches thick at the 9 inch wide end to keep a   constant thickness to chord proportion of 12.5%.  Any such required   tapering should be done prior to making the first cuts (while the section is   still rectangular). 
              Keep all tape lines straight and break   points sharp angles until you get to the final sanding   stage. 
              EDGE   TREATMENTS 
              Leading   Edge:  
              The leading edge should be smoothly   rounded. 
              Trailing   Edge: 
               Don’t feather the edge to a sharp   knife-edge – doing so will increase its susceptibility to damage.  The layout lines leave the   trailing edge about 8 percent of the thickness of the board.  Simply round   the trailing edge corners just enough to make the board easy to finish and   handle. For a centerboard or leeboard, consider   beveling the trailing edge somewhat.   It will minimize oscillating eddies that setup vibration in   the board.  This is particularly useful with thin   boards. 
              At right is  a table from "Principles   of Yacht Design", Lars Larsson & Rolf E. Eliasson. (click to enlarge) 
              Resist temptation to round the tip of the   foil section beyond a slight rounding of sharp corners.  Rounding will only   facilitate the eddying that occurs at this point, reducing the overall effective   board area. 
                
                Foilcuts Layout PDF 
                 
              Decimal - Fraction - Percent 
            ***** 
            
              Also by Tom Hamernik: 
             
                        
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